Wednesday 16 Apr
 
 

Smooth pop

Ah, springtime in Oklahoma and the joy of eating food from a street vendor. Just in time for the warm weather, two new mobile concepts want you to chill out.
04/16/2014 | Comments 0

Egg-static

No single holiday has done more to ruin the reputation of eggs than Easter.
04/16/2014 | Comments 0

Plane food

Ozzie’s Diner

1700 Lexington Ave., Norman

364-9835

ozziesdiner-hub.com

What works: No-frills diner food served fast and friendly.      

What needs work: Seating is slightly cramped.     

Tip: Come hungry; portions are huge.    

04/16/2014 | Comments 0

OKG7 eat: Fresh off the farm

There was a time not too terribly long ago in Oklahoma City when there was a chain on every corner and the closest you could get to local was to make a trip to your farmers market and make the food yourself. We always celebrate all things local, and luckily, it’s getting easier for OKC restaurants to incorporate locally grown, all- natural ingredients into what they offer.


— By Devon Green

photos by Mark Hancock and Shannon Cornman

04/16/2014 | Comments 0

OKG7 eat: Soccer pub crawl

Football season is finally here! We call it soccer, but that doesn’t have to stop you from indulging in two favorite European traditions: walking and pub crawling. Since the Energy FC games will be alcohol-free, we’ve created a list of pubs and taverns within walking distance from Clement E. Pribil Stadium at Bishop McGuinness Catholic High School.

— by Devon Green 

photos by Mark Hancock and Shannon Cornman

04/09/2014 | Comments 0

OGK7 eat: Dollars to doughnuts

While the idea of fried dough may or may not be American in origin, the traditional ring-shaped confection that we know and love does originate here. According to The Smithsonian, doughnuts were created by an enterprising New England sailor’s mother who wanted a way to store and transport pastry. Regardless of its origin, the doughnut is a modern favorite.

— by Devon Green, photos by Mark Hancock and Shannon Cornman 

04/02/2014 | Comments 0
Home · Articles · Food · Restaurant Reviews · Down-home downtown
Restaurant Reviews
 

Down-home downtown


Home cooking goes chic at Sage in Deep Deuce.

Joshua Boydston September 20th, 2011

For metro residents looking for the homey nature of the suburbs with the excitement of city life, there are few districts more suitable than the Deep Deuce neighborhood, which has been in the midst of a renaissance.

 Of course, home is as much about food as the house, so it feels only fitting that corner cafe Sage has played such a big part in the culture of the emerging district since owners Kevin and Charifa Smith opened the restaurant in 2009. The refined but homey nature of the cuisine seems to suit the identity of the area to a T.

With a big, glass front, located on the corner of a low-rise apartment building, Sage nods to Deep Deuce past and present with both food and decor. The simple but charming interior is warmly lit with pendant lighting and anchored by a modern, wooden bar with a statement piece — a wall-enveloping photo of Deep Deuce circa mid-20th century — plastered against the back of the front room. More so than many restaurants, the setting seems to tell a story, showcasing the neighborhood’s history while looking forward.

The only thing more welcoming than the ambience is the food. Few dishes measure up to macaroni and cheese in terms of down-home comfort, so it seems only natural that Sage would center its menu around the gooey, melty treat.

right  It’s a favorite, the truffle mac ’n’ cheese dish at Sage.

I’ve had mac ’n’ cheese for dinner many a time, but the only thing that qualified it as such was the heaping quantities that I piled on my plate; Sage takes the idea, elevates and refines it. Gourmet ingredients — both expected and not — find their way onto the oozy plate, totally changing the makeup in a playful, child-playing-with-their-food sort of way.

The seafood mac ($15) has been done plenty of times before — especially with lobster — but this specific plate makes the plunge into the deep, blue sea with lump crab, petite shrimp and buttery scallops. It’s as fishy and briny as you might expect, purposefully so, as it transforms into a soulful, Northeastern coastal flavor profile.

The roasted chicken and truffle bowl ($13.50) makes the most culinary sense. The chicken takes naturally to the curly noodles, and the truffle sauce cuts the creamy cheese with its pungent earthiness. All the flavors balance out, but find their own room to shine. The beef and cheddar ($12.50) is another  warm, hearty offering that is deeply satisfying with strong, warm flavors.

Other slightly more daring spins on the favorite include the grilled shrimp pesto or the Greek ’n’ Cheese (that’s chicken, feta, garlic, tomatoes and kalamata olives). Last, but not least, is the three-cheese, which finds Cheddar, Muenster and Gorgonzola baking into a fine, pleasantly burnt crust over the soft, gooey noodles hiding beneath.

If the macaroni presented to you feels like it could use a little seasoning, that’s where the finishing salts come into play. With names like Murray River and Cyprus Flake, the salts add smoky and tropical flourishes, and come as a side to your meal (three for $2).

The other entrées are still plates with which to be contended. The crab cake ($17.50) especially pops with its perfectly paired red pepper sauce, and the grilled salmon ($16) — topped with a garlic and scallion beurre blanc — is a point of pride for the eatery.

More Southern favorites find their place throughout the dinner and lunch menus. The crispy pan-fried green tomatoes ($7.50) are served with a sweet buttermilk ranch that would definitely do grandma proud. Other subtly refined appetizer options include the grilled chili-lime chicken wings ($8.50) that are served with a bright chili-lime cilantro sauce (a serious threat to ranch in the fight for chicken-wing accompaniment). The grilled vegetable platter ($8.50) — local vegetables seasoned with salts and herbs, served alongside chips and a creamy hummus — is a diner favorite.

And for being so potent with the delicious (if not entirely healthy) mac ’n’ cheese plates, Sage also does salads as good as most places around. The sesame ahi salad ($12.50) certainly jumps out of the pack (school?) with its tangy, ahi marinade laced over a bed of lettuce, green onions, radish and red bell peppers with a clear, sweet lemon vinaigrette.

With each and every diverse plate, Sage seems to hold one mantra close to its chest: There’s no place like home.

Oklahoma Gazette’s restaurant review policy is to highlight the positive aspects, and include constructive criticism regarding food, ambience or service when appropriate.

 
  • Currently 3.5/5 Stars.
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