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Home · Articles · Food · Restaurant Reviews · Elegant comfort food
Restaurant Reviews
 

Elegant comfort food


Award-winning Cheever’s is the holiday go-to to impress the relatives.

Christina Nihira December 14th, 2011

It’s the time of year when family likes to visit. And more than likely, they’re starving. So what are you going to feed them?

Instead of slaving in the kitchen, how about giving brunch a try? The midday meal is fun and social, and can be easier on the pocketbook.

Cheever’s Cafe is a place that lets you celebrate the holiday season with some divine cuisine.

For lunch and dinner crowds, Keith and Heather Paul’s upscale restaurant serves contemporary comfort food with Southwest influences: chicken-fried steak accompanied with jalapeno cream gravy, seafood tamales, prime steaks and salads.

right, Executive Chef Mark Ridener

Brunch is every bit as creative, serving many of the popular favorites found on the lunch and evening menus. Although the place is always busy, the service is attentive. The food is polished.

Meals begin with homemade rosemary rolls, served warm with sea salt sprinkled atop the butter.

Juan’s Queso Chihuahua ($10) is a staple on the appetizer menu. This rich dip, accompanied with crisp tortilla chips, is layered with black beans, Chihuahua cheese and roasted garlic crema. It combines the perfect mix of savory and sweet into a thick, gooey delight that finishes with a cool, green tomatilla salsa and fresh avocados.

The potato chips ($7), topped with warm blue cheese sauce, crisp bacon and green onion, were delicious and easy to share.

For the main course: Cowgirl Benedict ($13), a tiered trifecta. On the bottom were skillet potatoes. Next came the prize: chicken-fried steak. On the outside it was lightly battered and crispy, while on the inside, meat was warm and tender. I chose to have my egg poached and served with the red chile hollandaise sauce on the side with the fresh avocado.

If you want a more Southern approach, opt for the shrimp and grits ($12). The shrimp were nicely proportioned and had been braised in a garlic-white wine sauce before being wrapped in bacon. They were served on top of a steaming heap of cheddar-green onion grits, heaven to any crustacean-lover.

Other popular choices include roasted chicken enchiladas, migas, chorizo burrito, build-your-own omelet and French toast ($6-$12). You can get fried chicken and waffles that feature a specially seasoned, eight- ounce chicken breast and a corn waffle ($12).

For those wanting more traditional fare, three sandwiches are offered and start at $7.50. A bacon and egg, Uptown BLT and turkey club should satisfy the pickiest eater. Sides are hand-cut french fries, fresh fruit or skillet potatoes.

To drink? Brent’s Breakfast Detox ($6) has house-made pepper vodka, lemon juice and herbal honey. You can also try the mimosa ($2, a bargain!), pomegranate mojito ($9) or house Bloody Mary ($7).

If you have a sweet tooth, don’t miss the dessert course. Try the new chocolate-espresso flan ($7). The flan was creamy and reminded me of a thick mousse swirled with an enchanting hint of espresso. The hazelnut brittle provided a nice crunch. Don’t disregard the carrot cake ($10), called the Grand Canyon because of its six layers of cake and cream cheese icing! Chocolate cake, strawberries and cream cake, plus roasted pecan ice cream complete the desserts, ranging from $6 to $10.

right, Cheever's carrot cake

If you need to impress that special someone, drop into conversation that last month, Cheever’s Cafe received a Diners’ Choice Award. It was one of 100 restaurants to made the national list. Winners were chosen from more than 10 million reviews submitted by OpenTable diners for more than 12,000 restaurants.

Leave with a full tummy, and if you’re lucky, maybe your relatives will need a nap after the feast.

Oklahoma Gazette’s restaurant review policy is to highlight the positive aspects, and include constructive criticism regarding food, ambience or service when appropriate.

Photos by Shannon Cornman

 
  • Currently 3.5/5 Stars.
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