Wednesday 30 Jul
 
 

Pickin’ and grinnin’

Sand Stone Spring Vineyard, 9211 Sloan Road, in Mustang offers a unique opportunity for a glimpse into the wine industry. From now until mid-August, the winery welcomes visitors to pick their own grapes.
07/30/2014 | Comments 0

Food briefs: You’re toast, er, pretzel

There’s a new food truck on the scene.
07/22/2014 | Comments 0

Upward mobility

Locals can have fresh microgreens and herbs for cooking in a new and convenient way. Microgreens, a chef favorite, are petite vegetable greens that add color, nutrition and flavor to dishes.
07/23/2014 | Comments 0

Late-night bites

What a wealth of choices! We remember the days when the only places to eat after 10 p.m. were Denny’s and Waffle House. Next time you’re out late with friends, check out OKC’s abundance of local late-night eatery options.

— by Devon Green, photos by Mark Hancock, Shannon Cornman and Gazette staff

07/30/2014 | Comments 0

OKG eat: Cool places, cooler drinks

We know. It’s hot. It’s summer in Oklahoma. Cool down by sampling cocktails that local bars and restaurants have concocted just for you. Find a nice, air conditioned space or a shaded patio and while away the hours drinking the flavors of summer. You might decide it’s not that bad after all.

— by Devon Green, photos by Mark Hancock, Shannon Cornman and Lauren Hamilton

07/23/2014 | Comments 0

New kids on the block

There are a wealth of new local eateries cropping up in the metro and even more coming. If they’re not on your radar, they should be. From the comfy atmosphere at The Barrel on Western Avenue to the laid-back vibe at the Plaza District’s coffee shop, you might find a new regular hangout.

— by Devon Green, photos by Mark Hancock and Shannon Cornman

07/16/2014 | Comments 0
Home · Articles · Food · Restaurant Reviews · Creole royale
Restaurant Reviews
 

Creole royale


New Orleans-inspired cuisine fit for monarchs

Doug Hill January 4th, 2012

“I had a vision that Oklahoma needed some good, good Cajun cuisine,” Ken Mills said. He’s the owner and executive chef of Cajun King, whose original location opened in 2010 at 5816 N.W. 63rd.

A native of Ghana, Mills attended culinary school in the British coastal city of Brighton. He sharpened his cooking and management skills for 23 years in some of New Orleans’ finest establishments before coming here and partnering with Simeon Adda.

Mills’ revelation for Cajun food in Oklahoma may have had some spiritual inspiration. His minister once described the chef’s beignets as “manna from heaven.”

You walk through the door and into a Bourbon Street party at Cajun King. The sound system provides a seamless flow of up-tempo zydeco swamp-pop music. Sweep into a comfortable booth in one of two big dining rooms decorated with jazz portraits from the Big Easy.

Although it’s a buffet, self-serve restaurant with no menu from which to order, a server immediately brings an order of fried catfish and warm, sugar-dusted beignets to the table.


right, Catfish and beignets

It’s actually not immediately apparent that the curly, battered strips garnished with fresh parsley are, indeed, catfish. My dining companion has always turned up her nose at this Southern fare, but she snarfed down several pieces before knowing what it was.

“It’s my signature dish,” Mills explained. “What makes it different is how I batter it and the honey-mustard sauce served alongside. People go crazy for my catfish, which tickles me to death.”

You could almost skip the buffet and let them bring basket after basket of catfish and their semisweet fritterlike beignets. While they would happily do that, you’d be making a mistake. Buffets tend to be such that either the dishes aren’t good enough to go back for seconds, or so good you have to be careful not to hurt yourself. Cajun King is the latter. The vast majority of the 20-plus entrees and side dishes is of the quality you’d find in New Orleans.

The jambalaya is rich and smoky from generous chunks of sausage. The rice is tinted brick red with rich Creole sauce. Blackened pork chops are thick, but fork tender. “That’s a customer favorite, along with the crawfish étouffée,” Mills said.

A few of the side dishes, notably collard greens and candied yams, are spectacular. Cajun King is a soulfood joint disguised as a Louisiana restaurant. Many of its offerings you’d find served at inner-city diners from Motown to Atlanta, with no mention of it being Cajun food.

It would be impossible to try everything in one visit, but a few dishes I would favor over others. Tri-pepper, oven-roasted Cajun chicken would hit my plate ahead of the somewhat dry Southern-fried chicken. The incredibly complex and delicious flavors of crawfish étouffée are superior to the more bland gumbo.

If you’ve never tried frog legs, this is your chance. Battered and deep fried, the little rascals taste somewhere between mild seafood and wild quail.

Most important, save room for bread pudding. It’s a sinfully rich dessert that’s moist and sweet, smothered in a delectable caramelized brown sugar sauce.

The dinner buffet is $10.99 daily, except on Saturdays from 4 to 9 p.m. when it’s $15.99 (drink included) because of special shrimp dishes, fried boudin balls and gator ’n’ dumplings on the buffet.

Oklahoma Gazette’s restaurant review policy is to highlight the positive aspects, and include constructive criticism regarding food, ambience or service when appropriate.

Photo by Shannon Cornman

 
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