At Lumpy’s, owner Chris Cochrane and business partner Richard Phillips are the first to say that its food is just as important as the drinks made behind the bar.

In their attempt to emphasize the food, Cochrane and Phillips focus on high-quality ingredients. Put the tie away; this is not high-end dining. You don’t need to make reservations and it’s perfectly acceptable to start the meal with an ice-cold beer. Kick back and enjoy the lively atmosphere while you wait for the meal.

The menu isn’t surprising for a sports grill. Try its theta burger ($7.95) that comes with theta sauce and shredded Cheddar cheese. Or opt for the jalapeño cheeseburger ($7.95) or its blue cheeseburger ($8.95), made with real blue cheese crumbles. Try its big pretzel ($3.25), which is presented with mustard or queso.

right Sheila Bixler

My guest and I checked out the appetizers and discovered chicken bites ($5.95) or chicken wings ($7.95), complete with a choice of sauces including Buffalo, teriyaki jalapeño or a raspberry-chipotle sauce with ranch dressing and pieces of celery. Among the many other appetizers featured are fried green beans and okra.

We opted for fried mushrooms ($3.95) and a basket of onion rings ($3.95), which were perfectly fried. Those deep-fried mushrooms were silky inside and perfectly done with a crisp batter.

Lumpy’s always offers specials, and one was its salmon ($7.34) that arrived with a nicely textured vegetable medley, cooked well instead of melting into mush.

My choice was the grilled hand-cut rib-eye ($18.37), which came with a house salad, “homey” fries and vegetables.

Steaks, done for hearty appetites here, are black Angus beef, prepared simply with salt and pepper and not broiled in butter, an unpleasant practice at many high-dollar steakhouses these days.

Who can eat steak without potatoes? The Lumpy’s version done with large wedges is quite nice, and the portion was enough for two. Although I prefer something a bit crispier, somehow they disappeared.

For dessert, we had the Homerun: a chocolate brownie ($3.95) with vanilla ice cream, and the entire affair was drizzled with chocolate sauce. The Homerun is the only dessert that Lumpy’s offers, but it’s the only one really needed.

Take note that Lumpy’s is cigar- and cigarette-friendly, but there’s a patio when you need some fresh air.

Oklahoma Gazette’s restaurant review policy is to highlight the positive aspects, and include constructive criticism regarding food, ambience or service when appropriate.

Photo by Shannon Cornman