Tuesday 15 Apr
 
 

Thai me up

Thai Kitchen Cafe

327 Dean A. McGee Ave.

236-0229

What works: Top-notch pad thai, excellent stir-fry dishes, fast and friendly staff.

What needs work: Parking can be a real pain, but that’s the price of eating at Thai Kitchen Cafe.

Tip: Go at dinner if you want a larger selection. But there’s plenty to love at lunch.

04/09/2014 | Comments 0

Beer and wine

“Drink pink” is the rallying cry of spring for many wine lovers. The big reds of the fall and winter are retired in favor of lighterbodied wines for warmer weather, and the more patio-friendly the better. While white wines, especially sweeter ones, dominate the spring and summer, many wine lovers still prefer dry, red wines.
04/09/2014 | Comments 0

Drinking al fresco

One of the first signs of spring every year is the increase in drinkers and diners spending beautiful afternoons and evenings on metro restaurant patios. As the number of restaurants in the metro continues to grow, so do the number of patio options, but very few provide spectacular views of the city while you enjoy your spring cocktails. Here are three hot spots worth visiting for more than just food and drinks.
04/09/2014 | Comments 0

OKG7 eat: Soccer pub crawl

Football season is finally here! We call it soccer, but that doesn’t have to stop you from indulging in two favorite European traditions: walking and pub crawling. Since the Energy FC games will be alcohol-free, we’ve created a list of pubs and taverns within walking distance from Clement E. Pribil Stadium at Bishop McGuinness Catholic High School.

— by Devon Green 

photos by Mark Hancock and Shannon Cornman

04/09/2014 | Comments 0

OGK7 eat: Dollars to doughnuts

While the idea of fried dough may or may not be American in origin, the traditional ring-shaped confection that we know and love does originate here. According to The Smithsonian, doughnuts were created by an enterprising New England sailor’s mother who wanted a way to store and transport pastry. Regardless of its origin, the doughnut is a modern favorite.

— by Devon Green, photos by Mark Hancock and Shannon Cornman 

04/02/2014 | Comments 0

OKG7 eat: BBQ for me and you

Ubiquitous barbecue joints are a point of state pride and, in some cases, a reason to poke fun. When comedian Jim Gaffigan visited Oklahoma last year, he commented on the sheer number of barbecue restaurants in the Sooner State. Whether it’s the rub or the sauce, pork or beef, there’s one thing we all can agree on: A full plate of smoky, sweet barbecue with all the sides is heavenly.

— by Devon Green, photos by Mark Hancock and Shannon Cornman

03/26/2014 | Comments 0
Home · Articles · Food · Restaurant Reviews · Fontana Italian...
Restaurant Reviews
 

Fontana Italian Restaurant


Fontana nails the standards, and does so affordably.

Doug Hill March 14th, 2012

Fontana Italian Restaurant
854 N.W. 12th, Moore
703-0911
fontanaitalianrestaurant.com

What worked: The service was prompt and friendly in this family-owned bistro.
What needs work: A few inexpensive flourishes would add more appeal to the plain-Jane iceberg lettuce salads.
The tip: Bring your appetite! There is a large selection of traditional Italian-American favorites served in a simple setting.       

Fontana’s Italian Restaurant is not a ritzy joint. In a workaday neighborhood strip mall, its dining room is sparsely decorated with clichéd 19th century landscape prints and plastic grape vines. Dean Martin croons over the PA system.

Fontana’s is the kind of unpretentious Italian-American eatery you’ll find coast to coast. There are no white tablecloths or fine vino, but the spaghetti and meatballs dinner ($5.99) with salad and rolls is an honest deal.

Red carnations on each table were one of the few nods to dining elegance, but I’ll take server Jeremy Workman’s ready smile and efficient service over a snooty maître d’ in a tuxedo.

“I’m German, but kind of look Italian,” he said with a chuckle.

Fontana’s is the opposite of New Wave Italian cafes serving tiny portions artfully displayed on fancy china. The atmosphere here is comforting, and the serving sizes are hefty. Nothing on the menu is more than 15 clams.

right Chicken cacciatora

Our meal arrived at the table minutes after being ordered. Pasta was not overcooked. It’s old-school, Midwestern, friendly Italian- American food that’s affordably down-to-earth.

The menu is extensive with mostly familiar dishes, although some of the spellings were unconventional. There are 18 different chicken entrées that tend to be heavily sauced and flavored with sherry, brandy or white wine.

Chicken cacciatora ($7.99) and spicy chicken arrabbiata ($7.99) were no surprise, but chicken Murphy ($8.99) with its jalapeños in pink sauce raised my eyebrows. The chicken Marsala ($7.99) had just the right amount of aromatic sweetness from the aperitif, combined with a generous stir of fresh mushrooms.

All meals come with an uninspired iceberg lettuce and tomato slice salad. The house Italian dressing was an unappealing marinara sauce and olive oil concoction. Warm rolls had seasoning sprinkled on top and the menu said “homemade.”

Workman confirmed they’re baked in-house daily.

Opinion was divided about the Veal Dama Bianca ($10.99). My dining companion liked the tender slices of meat smothered in rich brandy cream sauce. My portion was a less-than-fork-tender beef cutlet that apparently had been cooked too fast.

The lobster ravioli ($7.99), with its fat pasta pillows stuffed with succulent seafood and swimming in mild pink gravy, was a good choice, along with all the pasta entrées we tried. Tortellini Bascajoua ($6.99) was a primo mix-up of ham, green peas, mushrooms and navel-shaped noodles in a sherry cream sauce.

Luscious sauce is Fontana’s forte.

The saucy sautéed and baked pastas are its stand-out dishes. Baked Ziti Ciciliano with eggplant ($6.99) didn’t skimp on the vegetables, mozzarella or marinara.

The menu has several vegetarian options, and the five kiddie choices are all $3.50.

Save room for dessert: Three kinds of cheesecake, tiramisu and Black Forest cake are on the menu.

Oklahoma Gazette’s restaurant review policy is to highlight the positive aspects, and include constructive criticism regarding food, ambience or service when appropriate.

Photos by Mark Hancock

 
  • Currently 3.5/5 Stars.
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