Thursday 10 Jul
 
 

Top of the city

With Josh Valentine running the kitchen at The George, the anticipated opening of the restaurant atop Founders Tower has been worth the wait.
07/09/2014 | Comments 0

Going dark

Local brewers are expanding production, purchasing equipment and facilities and releasing new brews as Oklahoma’s craft beer industry continues to expand. Oklahoma City-based Black Mesa Brewing Company, fresh off its gold medal at the World Beer Festival, released a new beer, Alexander Supertramp Dopplebock, in June.
07/09/2014 | Comments 0

Experiments in spice

Jordan Winn of Dead Rooster Co. and Scotty Irani of local company In The Kitchen with Scotty want to inspire foodies to get more from barbecue.

During the Fourth of July weekend, many of us will attend or host a cookout.

There are two local options to make grilling time more satisfying for everyone.

07/02/2014 | Comments 0

OKG Eat

Ah, the perils of working with special dietary needs. It can make dining out a pain. Luckily, with restaurateurs becoming more savvy to their diners’ needs, there are a bevy of places in OKC to satisfy your craving for the foods you love without losing taste. All choices this week have been road-tested by gluten-sensitive foodies to guarantee satisfaction.
07/09/2014 | Comments 0

OKG eat: Know your rights

What better way to celebrate your freedom than grilling it to perfection over an open flame? We’ve combed local meat markets for the best ingredients to make traditional burgers or brisket. Feeling more adventurous? Why not go for lamb or buffalo? Whatever your heart desires, local butchers will be more than happy to help you praise hot-off-the grill freedom.
07/02/2014 | Comments 0

OKG Eat: The OKG staff eats, too

Culled from a list overflowing with some of the best and least-known names in the city, here are the places you’re likely to see a member of our staff. These are several top recommendations from Oklahoma Gazette staff.
06/25/2014 | Comments 0
Home · Articles · Food · Restaurant Reviews · Hurts so good
Restaurant Reviews
 

Hurts so good


This Thai house isn’t afraid to turn up the heat with its curry and chile dishes.

Greg Elwell March 28th, 2012

When my friends came to town — yes, I have them; don’t act so shocked — they had a few places they wanted to stop. La Baguette for brunch. The Wedge for dinner. And lunch, they insisted, must be at … Pei Wei.

Listen, if you’re in the mood for a dan dan noodle bowl, I’m not going to cry foul. But it’s inexplicable when you consider that good, authentic Thai food is available pretty much everywhere in Oklahoma City.

One of the oldest names in OKC’s Thai food community is Sala Thai. And although the business has changed hands over the years, it’s still making great food.

I went with a large-ish group of people, not because I like the company, but because I needed a table large enough to accommodate everything I ordered. And while it may have looked fine to the other diners, our waitress knew and (rightfully) judged me.

But, hey, am I supposed to actually choose just one entrée? That’s unheard of … in my Overeaters Anonymous meetings.

Let’s start with my favorite dish: ginger Thai-style chicken ($8.70). Ask for it hot. If it’s not hot enough, ask for it to be hotter. Then soak in the sweet, slightly sour burn of delight. While the big pieces of chicken are great, I mostly was taken by the abundance of sweet, crunchy onions.

If you get a to-go box with leftovers — and I’m not saying this happened to me at 3:45 p.m. or anything — don’t expect them to make it all the way home. Like a lot of spicy dishes, the flavors pleasantly intensify over time.

For those who like fish, there are a few excellent options. For those who don’t like fish: Grow up and eat some fish. It’s good for you.

My favorites are spicy trout ($8.70) with bamboo shoots in red curry, which soaks into the rice and delivers a big punch of flavor, and the similar, but crispier, chile fish ($11.70). Chile fish forgoes the curry sauce for pure, unadulterated awesome heat. Lots of sweet, hot chiles on top of thin, fried rainbow trout. I’m about 95 percent sure this is what John Mellencamp sang about in “Hurts So Good.”

For those who like pho — which should be all of you — there’s a Thai cousin you ought to try: Boat noodles ($8.70). Combining tender cuts of beef with rice noodles and bean sprouts, it’s a cinnamon-packed soup that is at once familiar and very different.

And one simply cannot talk about a Thai restaurant without mentioning pad thai. One has enjoyed this dish many times at Sala Thai. One doesn’t feel that it stands out from the pack as a particularly different pad thai, but one isn’t particularly looking for a dish to be strange, so long as it’s good. That one is me.

Look, Sala Thai has been around for a while for a reason. There are dishes I like more (chile fish, for instance), but I haven’t had anything there I wouldn’t gladly eat again, so long as you’re paying. Are you paying? Don’t leave me hanging here.

Oklahoma Gazette’s restaurant review policy is to highlight the positive aspects, and include constructive criticism regarding food, ambience or service when appropriate.


 
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