Thursday 17 Apr
 
 

Smooth pop

Ah, springtime in Oklahoma and the joy of eating food from a street vendor. Just in time for the warm weather, two new mobile concepts want you to chill out.
04/16/2014 | Comments 0

Egg-static

No single holiday has done more to ruin the reputation of eggs than Easter.
04/16/2014 | Comments 0

Plane food

Ozzie’s Diner

1700 Lexington Ave., Norman

364-9835

ozziesdiner-hub.com

What works: No-frills diner food served fast and friendly.      

What needs work: Seating is slightly cramped.     

Tip: Come hungry; portions are huge.    

04/16/2014 | Comments 0

OKG7 eat: Fresh off the farm

There was a time not too terribly long ago in Oklahoma City when there was a chain on every corner and the closest you could get to local was to make a trip to your farmers market and make the food yourself. We always celebrate all things local, and luckily, it’s getting easier for OKC restaurants to incorporate locally grown, all- natural ingredients into what they offer.


— By Devon Green

photos by Mark Hancock and Shannon Cornman

04/16/2014 | Comments 0

OKG7 eat: Soccer pub crawl

Football season is finally here! We call it soccer, but that doesn’t have to stop you from indulging in two favorite European traditions: walking and pub crawling. Since the Energy FC games will be alcohol-free, we’ve created a list of pubs and taverns within walking distance from Clement E. Pribil Stadium at Bishop McGuinness Catholic High School.

— by Devon Green 

photos by Mark Hancock and Shannon Cornman

04/09/2014 | Comments 0

OGK7 eat: Dollars to doughnuts

While the idea of fried dough may or may not be American in origin, the traditional ring-shaped confection that we know and love does originate here. According to The Smithsonian, doughnuts were created by an enterprising New England sailor’s mother who wanted a way to store and transport pastry. Regardless of its origin, the doughnut is a modern favorite.

— by Devon Green, photos by Mark Hancock and Shannon Cornman 

04/02/2014 | Comments 0
Home · Articles · Food · Restaurant Reviews · Hurts so good
Restaurant Reviews
 

Hurts so good


This Thai house isn’t afraid to turn up the heat with its curry and chile dishes.

Greg Elwell March 28th, 2012

When my friends came to town — yes, I have them; don’t act so shocked — they had a few places they wanted to stop. La Baguette for brunch. The Wedge for dinner. And lunch, they insisted, must be at … Pei Wei.

Listen, if you’re in the mood for a dan dan noodle bowl, I’m not going to cry foul. But it’s inexplicable when you consider that good, authentic Thai food is available pretty much everywhere in Oklahoma City.

One of the oldest names in OKC’s Thai food community is Sala Thai. And although the business has changed hands over the years, it’s still making great food.

I went with a large-ish group of people, not because I like the company, but because I needed a table large enough to accommodate everything I ordered. And while it may have looked fine to the other diners, our waitress knew and (rightfully) judged me.

But, hey, am I supposed to actually choose just one entrée? That’s unheard of … in my Overeaters Anonymous meetings.

Let’s start with my favorite dish: ginger Thai-style chicken ($8.70). Ask for it hot. If it’s not hot enough, ask for it to be hotter. Then soak in the sweet, slightly sour burn of delight. While the big pieces of chicken are great, I mostly was taken by the abundance of sweet, crunchy onions.

If you get a to-go box with leftovers — and I’m not saying this happened to me at 3:45 p.m. or anything — don’t expect them to make it all the way home. Like a lot of spicy dishes, the flavors pleasantly intensify over time.

For those who like fish, there are a few excellent options. For those who don’t like fish: Grow up and eat some fish. It’s good for you.

My favorites are spicy trout ($8.70) with bamboo shoots in red curry, which soaks into the rice and delivers a big punch of flavor, and the similar, but crispier, chile fish ($11.70). Chile fish forgoes the curry sauce for pure, unadulterated awesome heat. Lots of sweet, hot chiles on top of thin, fried rainbow trout. I’m about 95 percent sure this is what John Mellencamp sang about in “Hurts So Good.”

For those who like pho — which should be all of you — there’s a Thai cousin you ought to try: Boat noodles ($8.70). Combining tender cuts of beef with rice noodles and bean sprouts, it’s a cinnamon-packed soup that is at once familiar and very different.

And one simply cannot talk about a Thai restaurant without mentioning pad thai. One has enjoyed this dish many times at Sala Thai. One doesn’t feel that it stands out from the pack as a particularly different pad thai, but one isn’t particularly looking for a dish to be strange, so long as it’s good. That one is me.

Look, Sala Thai has been around for a while for a reason. There are dishes I like more (chile fish, for instance), but I haven’t had anything there I wouldn’t gladly eat again, so long as you’re paying. Are you paying? Don’t leave me hanging here.

Oklahoma Gazette’s restaurant review policy is to highlight the positive aspects, and include constructive criticism regarding food, ambience or service when appropriate.


 
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