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The hole shebang


Everyone loves a good donut.

Greg Elwell June 6th, 2012

What a conundrum you present, donuts. First of all, should you be spelled “doughnuts”? Nobody is quite sure.

Brown's Bakery
Mark Hancock
But more important, is there a better (tasting) and worse (health-wise) way to start a day than a donut? One will lift the spirits, but nobody eats just one. After six, the spirits are still high, but the body droops uncomfortably toward the ground.

Still, we do not eat donuts every day.

They are treats and, when one is treating oneself, one wants the best treats available. Some swear by Krispy Kreme or any of the ubiquitous Daylight Donuts tucked into shopping centers across the metro.

But if you’re looking for something a little different, Oklahoma City has plenty to choose from.

Brown’s Bakery, 1100 N. Walker, is the kind of place where you can buy donuts and a birthday cake and a dozen cupcakes all in one stop. Its wares are very traditional — not a lot of hoopla here — but still quite tasty.

There’s also fresh-baked bread, if you’re one of those “toast for breakfast” people, and mini-sausage rolls, but this is about donuts, so stop trying to distract me.

A newcomer to the group is Route 66 Donuts, 8368 N.W. 39th in Bethany. Here you’ll find all the usual donuts and toppings and one special addition: the chocolate-glazed cinnamon roll.

The texture of the roll is very much like a glazed donut, with a light, airy center surrounded by a sweet, crispy shell. The normal cinnamon-sugar glaze is hiding in the folds of dough and the chocolate frosting on top works its way through, as well.

Chocolate and cinnamon are not everyday friends. Chocolate is too much of an alpha dog and cinnamon, while happy to be a role player, needs to be able to shine alone. But when they team up, like on this donut, they’re a force to be reckoned with.


A donut by any other name

Speaking of forces, would you be interested in a Strong Pimp Hand? How about a Camel Toe? These are pastries and they are available for purchase at Polar Donuts, 1111 N. Meridian.

Owner Younts Waters is having fun with his business. That probably explains why everybody working there is wearing a fedora and why he’s not afraid to get a little tongue-in-cheek.

Both the Pimp Hand and the Camel Toe are basically filled bear claws with strategic shaping. More interesting is what goes into the donuts: potato. Waters, taking a cue from the old Spudnuts brand, uses potato flakes to give his donuts a signature taste and look.

“That’s what makes us unique,” he said. “The potato makes sure the donuts stay soft and fresh all day.”

Another unique offering at Polar Donuts is the glazed chocolate donut. Here, the dough is chocolate flavored with the normal sugar glaze on top.

They’re only available in the summer, so don’t wait too long to try one.

Oh, and get an apple fritter. Seriously.

They’re not as funny as the Pimp Hand, but they taste like apple-y heaven.

There’s also something to be said for accuracy in naming, and so far, no one has been able to prove that Best Donuts, 2320 N.W. 23rd, doesn’t have fair claim to the name. This neighborhood gem is turning out glazed donuts that meet and exceed the standard set by Krispy Kreme. They’re delicate, delicious and addictive.

Try Best Donuts’ old-fashioned donuts for something with a little more heft (especially the blueberry cake version), or my new favorite thing ever: raspberry jelly-filled donut holes. If you’re worried about the donut-to-filling ratio, you probably worry too much. These are delightful.


Late-night donuts

But what if it’s late? What if the only donut places still going are the chains?

What then, imaginary problem-haver? What then?

Then you go to Republic Gastropub, 5830 N. Classen, and order some dessert. Meme’s donuts are fried cake donut balls covered in cinnamonsugar and served with chocolate, caramel and strawberry dipping sauces, based on a recipe from owner Keith Paul’s grandmother.

“My grandma would make homemade biscuit dough and fry donut holes tossed with powdered sugar or cinnamon sugar,” he said. “We’ve changed it up a little bit. We don’t do the powdered sugar, but we’ve added dipping sauces.”

They were so popular when the restaurant opened that nearly 75 percent of tables were ordering them, which necessitated the installation of a second fryer.

Are they good? Yes. Yes, they are.

Meme’s donuts will sate whatever urges you might be experiencing. Well … not every urge, but that’s asking a lot of a donut, anyway.

 
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