Friday 18 Apr
 
 

Permanent parking, mobile food

A plan to create a permanent food truck park in Midtown passed the Downtown Design Review Committee (DDRC) on April 17. The creator, Hunter Wheat, based it on other permanent food parks around the country, including places like New York, the Dallas/Ft. Worth-area and Austin, Texas.
04/18/2014 | Comments 0

Smooth pop

Ah, springtime in Oklahoma and the joy of eating food from a street vendor. Just in time for the warm weather, two new mobile concepts want you to chill out.
04/16/2014 | Comments 0

Egg-static

No single holiday has done more to ruin the reputation of eggs than Easter.
04/16/2014 | Comments 0

OKG7 eat: Fresh off the farm

There was a time not too terribly long ago in Oklahoma City when there was a chain on every corner and the closest you could get to local was to make a trip to your farmers market and make the food yourself. We always celebrate all things local, and luckily, it’s getting easier for OKC restaurants to incorporate locally grown, all- natural ingredients into what they offer.


— By Devon Green

photos by Mark Hancock and Shannon Cornman

04/16/2014 | Comments 0

OKG7 eat: Soccer pub crawl

Football season is finally here! We call it soccer, but that doesn’t have to stop you from indulging in two favorite European traditions: walking and pub crawling. Since the Energy FC games will be alcohol-free, we’ve created a list of pubs and taverns within walking distance from Clement E. Pribil Stadium at Bishop McGuinness Catholic High School.

— by Devon Green 

photos by Mark Hancock and Shannon Cornman

04/09/2014 | Comments 0

OGK7 eat: Dollars to doughnuts

While the idea of fried dough may or may not be American in origin, the traditional ring-shaped confection that we know and love does originate here. According to The Smithsonian, doughnuts were created by an enterprising New England sailor’s mother who wanted a way to store and transport pastry. Regardless of its origin, the doughnut is a modern favorite.

— by Devon Green, photos by Mark Hancock and Shannon Cornman 

04/02/2014 | Comments 0
Home · Articles · Food · Restaurant Reviews · Pig out
Restaurant Reviews
 

Pig out


Van’s Pig Stands have been feeding hungry Oklahomans for more than 80 years.

Doug Hill February 20th, 2013

Van’s Pig Stand
320 N. Porter, Norman
364-0600
pigstands.com
What worked:
outstanding hickory smoked barbecue that rivals any of the best in the country
What needs work:
The baked beans need bolder flavor.
Tip:
tried-and-true Oklahoma family recipes at a reasonable price        

By: Mark Hancock

From the name alone, you wouldn’t mistake Van’s Pig Stand for a kosher deli or Middle Eastern restaurant. But Oklahomans not in the know might not realize the place, which originally launched in Wewoka, is a bastion for barbecue. The Van clan has been hickory smoking ribs, pork and brisket in the state for more than 80 years

Van’s boasts a Norman location on the eastern edge of a fun neighborhood, the downtown arts district. Hipster haven Gray Owl Coffee is right around the corner, with Anty Shanty Vintage Clothing in the other direction. The family-owned-and-operated business also has spots in Shawnee and Moore.

The Norman restaurant is in a former 1930s’-era service station with art deco-style architecture now highlighted with blue and pink neon signs. The interior is decorated in rough chic with corrugated steel trim, solid dark wood booths and vintage auto posters.

The main attraction, the Van’s pig sandwich ($3.65), is a registered trademark name.

“Because of our history and secret family recipes that haven’t changed over the years, we take a lot of pride in the food we serve,” said Mark Shuman, who runs the Norman eatery.

There’s a lot to be proud of. Van’s sells more brisket than pork, and it is top-notch barbecue. Not too dry or lean and not too fat, the brisket was just right. The beef is moist and tender, and hadn’t been overwhelmed by hickory smoke flavor. That occasionally happens when a pit master is overzealous with his smoldering art, but not at Van’s.

“Most of the meats are smoked here on site for 12 to 14 hours, which makes them tender,” Shuman said. “Ribs take less time than that. They’re all different, and we know how to adjust as necessary.”

Van’s pig sandwich ($3.65) is a staple. The meaty rack of ribs (market price) is prime eating and, similar to the brisket, rivals the best barbecue in Kansas City, Mo., Memphis or Dallas. A big rib dinner ($13.55) comes with six ribs, two side dishes and bread. It’s a feast. Chicken, sausage, turkey, hot links and pork are also smoked, and you may order dinners with any combination.

“Make it a Van” means adding curly fries ($1.25) to any sandwich, such as the large pig sandwich ($5.69). Side orders are typical of barbecue joints in this part of the country. It has fried okra along with potato salad and green and pinto beans.

The baked beans were disappointing. They had obviously been doctored up with spices, probably bell pepper and shredded meat. But the dang beans were just insipid.

They lacked bold flavor and demand a stronger hand with the seasoning. Next time, pintos will get a try instead because it’s just not barbecue without beans. The coleslaw with pretty red cabbage slivers was tasty and had a well-balanced vinegar-and-sugar kiss.

Van’s sauce is a rich, red Kansas City style that comes in mild or hot versions. It’s a carnivore palace, but a vegetarian could order the big salad ($4.65) with a slice of carrot cake ($3.85) that’s baked in-house from the old Van family recipe.

Oklahoma Gazette’s restaurant review policy is to highlight the positive aspects, and include constructive criticism regarding food, ambience or service when appropriate.

 
  • Currently 3.5/5 Stars.
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
 
 

 

 
02.20.2013 at 02:37 Reply

Auuuugh! Do not change the baked beans!

All you need to do is chop up a bit of onion from the fixins bar and stir in a dollop of Van's hot bbq sauce and voila!! You gonna love it. Trust me. :)

What really needs repair is the fries. They've always been soggy and greasy. Everything else is the best available.

 

 
 
Close
Close
Close