Chef Rag Gautam
By: Shannon Cornman
Consistency is key to a restaurant’s survival. Diners need to be confident that each time they go into a restaurant, they’ll get the same quality of food and level of service they expect.
Heritage India, Edmond’s new and highly touted Indian restaurant, is turning out great food. And the service, after some initial hiccups, seems to be improving.
And that’s good, because I want Heritage to survive. And thrive. And have to open a second location that’s a lot closer to my house.
It starts with the naan bread ($2.49), which is the best I’ve had in the metro.
Cooked inside the tandoor oven, it is both crisp and chewy and has a light buttery flavor. I ate it like I was afraid someone was coming to take it away. I was not as wild about the garlic naan, which I felt had too much of the harsh, raw garlic bitterness and bite.
Another good starter is the vegetable samosas (two for $3.99). Freshly fried, they are savory and wonderful, especially with the dipping sauces on the side. It’s a good thing there were only two, because there was more food coming.
Probably the best dish I’ve had there is the chana saag ($9.95), a stew of chickpeas and spinach. Each creamy bite hides a few chickpeas, which give it more texture and flavor. I didn’t expect to be wowed by spinach, but I was. Highly recommended.
For those who enjoy more spice, the goan lamb vindaloo ($13.95) pairs tender chunks of lamb with a chunky, spicy curry sauce. As good as it was the first night, I loved it even more the next morning, when I fried a couple of eggs into it at home. As always, a few hours in the fridge cranks up the heat.
If you’re new to Indian
food, you might enjoy the Heritage tandoor platter ($19.95), which is
similar, in some ways, to fajitas. You get the sizzling cast-iron
skillet topped with onions and peppers. But instead of steak, there’s
marinated tilapia, lamb kabob and tandoor chicken.
get the chicken biryani ($11.95), which is kind of like an Indian fried
rice. It’s a little crunchy and crispy, but mostly it’s just spicy and
delicious. Chicken, mint, onion and saffron: It’s a heady combination.
vegetarians, the malai kofta ($8.95) is a nice treat. You get big
vegetable dumplings in a sweet, creamy sauce, served over rice that
eagerly soaks up all the flavors.
also liked the Bengal fish masala ($14.95), which has tender fish
fillets swimming in a sauce of tomato, onion and herbs. Fish and chicken
both do a good job of allowing a chef to impose flavors on them. Here,
the fish takes on a lot of heat and flavor without compromising the
kid’s menu, too, although I wouldn’t get the cheese aloo tikka ($3.49)
again. It was kind of a mashed potato patty stuffed with cheese, which
sounds pretty good but ended up just tasting like a disc of starch.
heard very few people who have problems with Heritage India’s food, and
I’ve enjoyed just about everything I’ve had there. But service has been
an issue, with missing entrees, long waits and the like. The last time I
went in, it seemed as if most of the problems had been addressed.
And that’s important. No matter how good the food tastes, if it takes forever or it never comes, you won’t enjoy it.
Heritage can raise the level of service to match the level of its
cuisine, I have no doubt the restaurant will be an Oklahoma staple for
many years to come.
And it had better, because I’m not about to stop eating that naan.
Gazette’s restaurant review policy is to highlight the positive
aspects, and include constructive criticism regarding food, ambience or
service when appropriate.