Friday 25 Jul
 
 

Food briefs: You’re toast, er, pretzel

There’s a new food truck on the scene.
07/22/2014 | Comments 0

Upward mobility

Locals can have fresh microgreens and herbs for cooking in a new and convenient way. Microgreens, a chef favorite, are petite vegetable greens that add color, nutrition and flavor to dishes.
07/23/2014 | Comments 0

Vietnamese comfort food

I’ve always had a love affair with the refreshing, healthy cuisine of Vietnam. I love the fragrances, the fresh herbs, cilantro, basil, mint and other Asian herbs: perilla, Vietnamese coriander and sawtooth cilantro. And I love the contrast and balance in almost every dish: spicy vs. cool, salty vs. sweet and steamed vs. crispy.
07/16/2014 | Comments 0

OKG eat: Cool places, cooler drinks

We know. It’s hot. It’s summer in Oklahoma. Cool down by sampling cocktails that local bars and restaurants have concocted just for you. Find a nice, air conditioned space or a shaded patio and while away the hours drinking the flavors of summer. You might decide it’s not that bad after all.

— by Devon Green, photos by Mark Hancock, Shannon Cornman and Lauren Hamilton

07/23/2014 | Comments 0

New kids on the block

There are a wealth of new local eateries cropping up in the metro and even more coming. If they’re not on your radar, they should be. From the comfy atmosphere at The Barrel on Western Avenue to the laid-back vibe at the Plaza District’s coffee shop, you might find a new regular hangout.

— by Devon Green, photos by Mark Hancock and Shannon Cornman

07/16/2014 | Comments 0

OKG Eat

Ah, the perils of working with special dietary needs. It can make dining out a pain. Luckily, with restaurateurs becoming more savvy to their diners’ needs, there are a bevy of places in OKC to satisfy your craving for the foods you love without losing taste. All choices this week have been road-tested by gluten-sensitive foodies to guarantee satisfaction.
07/09/2014 | Comments 0
Home · Articles · Food · Restaurant Reviews · American luxury
Restaurant Reviews
 

American luxury


Packard’s American Kitchen showcases the art of handcrafted fare, from duck mac and cheese to juicy rib-eye hamburgers.

Greg Elwell January 15th, 2014

Winners never quit. Even if they start out by losing a bit. Packard’s New American Kitchen, 201 NW 10th St., had to endure an early losing streak. The menu seemed ambitious and different, but like so many restaurants, it took time for the food and the service to meet the high expectations of the customers.

Packard’s didn’t quit. If you’re smart enough to seek them out, get ready for a plate full of win.

While some restaurants focus on hyper-local fare, Packard’s philosophy is more about the handmade nature of the food. They use local if they can get it, said general manager John Ross, but the most important goal is consistently tasty dishes and drinks.

Start off with a cocktail. Specifically, one of the oak barrel-aged cocktails they’ve just started. The Salary Man (a mix of strong tonic, Plymouth gin and Campari) is smooth as can be after 45 days melding together.

To eat, get smoked salmon ($15). A big, beautiful, pink hunk of flaky fish, the appetizer comes with toast (from their house-made basil bread, natch), fried capers and dill cream cheese.

There’s more food to eat. While I liked the flavor of the kale salad ($8), it seemed small for the price. That said, what it lacked in lettuce, it seemed to make up for with accoutrements like figs and tomatoes. Still, maybe add a protein (shrimp $6, steak $7, chicken $4, salmon $8) if you’re trying to make it a meal.

I was a fan of the fried lasagna ($15), which is an entree big enough for two people. The key here is that Packard’s makes its own pasta and then fries sheets of noodle before stacking them in a roughly lasagna-type equivalent. With a mix of beef trimmings and pork, the meat sauce is rich and hearty. Onions and peppers are sauteed with just a bit of crunch and lots of flavor. It’s not an overly cheesy dish. One caveat: This one doesn’t age well as leftovers.

The duck mac ($15) called out to me with promises of house-made noodles and pulled duck confit and fulfilled them. The whole wheat pasta is a bit more stout than I’m used to, and it muted the flavors of the cheese (a local raw milk cheddar) slightly. Still, it was a filling and hearty dish I’d gladly have again.

Packard’s rib-eye burger ($10) is not long for this world, but it’s soon to be replaced with another crowd-pleaser combining pork and beef trimmings for an altogether luscious sandwich. The spicy tomato jam is a revelation — it should be dispensed in parks and elementary schools alongside water fountains — and I highly recommend you try it with an egg on top.

Speaking of eggs, if you’re lucky enough to escape the house in time for brunch, you are hereby ordered to get the croque madame ($12). Ham, bechamel and swiss on top of a thick piece of toast is a good start. Two farm-fresh eggs on top is a finishing move more impressive than any in Mortal Kombat.

Packard’s has survived their rough patch. Service clicks. The food sings. And as the menu changes for the season, it should be a clear sign to those who waited (or experienced an early snag) that it’s time to go back.

 
  • Currently 3.5/5 Stars.
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