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Egg-static


Rediscover a love of eggs with creative takes on the Easter staple.

Greg Elwell April 16th, 2014

No single holiday has done more to ruin the reputation of eggs than Easter.

Crab cake Benedict at KD's.
Photo by Shannon Cornman

Plastic shells filled with candy are fine, unless you buy the bargain basement jelly beans that nobody wants. Cadbury Creme Eggs are an affront to both God and man. If the Romans had left one outside the tomb, Jesus wouldn’t have bothered rolling away the stone.

Traditional hard-boiled and dyed eggs are wonderful, but somebody always hides one too well, and then you’ve got a tiny pocket of stink hanging out in your backyard for a month, just waiting to explode under the blades of your lawnmower. Luckily, there is a concerted egg rehabilitation program going on in our local Oklahoma City restaurants. Chefs are doing all they can to bring the incredible egg back to its edible roots.

At Ludivine, 805 N. Hudson Ave., chef Jonathon Stranger uses the egg as a special touch atop one of his favorite seasonal dishes, pig tongue with ham and egg. Using cooked and creamed crowder peas as a base, he sets the stage for something both familiar and foreign with the pig tongue. Along with bits of ham, the dish is finished with the egg.

“Like so much of what we do, this is a comfort food dish,” he said. “It’s simple, it’s familiar, but it’s still a little outside the box.”

Eggs take a more central role in the tapas-inspired Spanish eggs with goat cheese at The Lobby Cafe & Bar, 4322 N. Western Ave. The rich, fatty dish packs quite a punch, according to executive chef Jonathan Groth.

“We use real Spanish chorizo, and the fat content is pretty high,” he said.

But so is the flavor content, with piquillo peppers, onions and goat cheese added to a plate of steaming hot scrambled eggs served on a hot tortilla.

Based on the menu at Cafe Kacao, 3325 N. Classen Blvd., I’d guess nobody in Guatemala ever misses breakfast. And the dish that has captured so many hearts in Oklahoma City is Monteluenos. Despite the pair of corn tortillas underneath, no one will mistake this dish for breakfast tacos. This is knife-and-fork breakfast at its best with a hearty helping of black beans, spicy ranchero sauce, crumbled cheese and avocado slices. The kicker: two eggs cooked to order.

It’s an incredibly filling breakfast but is so good you’ll keep eating until it’s gone.

Can any discussion of eggs be complete without considering A Good Egg Dining Group’s breakout hit Kitchen No. 324?

Yes, Kitchen No. 324 does a lot of poached eggs. That’s because poached eggs are amazing. The white is set, and the yolk is runny and flavorful. And for sheer pop, you can’t do much better than the Green Eggs and Ham.

These are eggs Benedict, except instead of boring Canadian bacon, there is salty, seductive prosciutto. And the titular green comes from crispy arugula and the powerful punch of pesto. Gently poke one of those eggs and watch the yolk soak into the housemade English muffin. Sop it up with a side of potatoes. (Or get some of the small-batch bacon.)

Do you still need more decadence?

Fine. Be a baller. Be a shot-caller. Head to KD’s Southern Cuisine, 224 Johnny Bench Drive, for its Friday, Saturday and Sunday brunch and get the crab cake Benedict. More poached eggs? Damn straight. But there’s nothing quite like a tender piece of crab meat mixed with just-right eggs to make you think, “Hunt for all the plastic and subpar chocolate you want, kids. My egg hunt is ending with a mimosa.”

 
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