Thursday 24 Jul
 
 

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OKG eat: Cool places, cooler drinks

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— by Devon Green, photos by Mark Hancock, Shannon Cornman and Lauren Hamilton

07/23/2014 | Comments 0

New kids on the block

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— by Devon Green, photos by Mark Hancock and Shannon Cornman

07/16/2014 | Comments 0

OKG Eat

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Home · Articles · Food · Restaurant Reviews · Magnum Opus
Restaurant Reviews
 

Magnum Opus


Opus Prime Steakhouse offers decadence in everything from wine to lobster. Oh yeah, and steak, too.

Greg Elwell June 25th, 2014

Opus Prime Steakhouse
800 W. Memorial Rd.
opusprimesteakhouse.com
607-6787
What works: steaks, crab cakes and a wine list that could choke a donkey.
What needs work: a little less Sinatra on the stereo, but not much else.
Tip: With barrel-aged cocktails and an appetizer, the patio is a great spot to relax.

An extensive wine cellar greets visitors of Opus Prime Steakhouse. The selection alone makes the visit worthwhile.
Photo: Shannon Cornman

The wine list. My god, the wine list.

When I first opened the small encyclopedia volume masquerading as a wine list at Opus Prime Steakhouse, I could not contain the laugh that escaped my mouth. Looking up at one of their four wine vaults, I knew I needed a glass of something.

Lucky for me, the knowledgeable staff was there to guide me to a reasonably priced and unreasonably delicious glass of zinfandel.

I’m no oenophile, but I like a nice glass of wine, and these guys know their stuff. They claim a list of more than 900 labels, which is to say they have a lot of good wine.

And if you went to Opus just to drink, I wouldn’t blame you, but you’d be missing out on some very fine cuisine. To start, I had the crab cake ($15.99), which seemed, to me, to be made entirely of lump crab with a fine dice of green onion and red bell pepper sprinkled in for color. Paired with a lobster cream sauce, it was just decadent enough that I would have eaten three of them myself.

Thankfully, I restrained myself, because I was even more smitten with the lobster bisque ($9.99). First comes a bowl with big chunks of fresh lobster. Then your waiter pours over a bisque so smooth and rich, I worried it would solidify midair. The texture was creamy. The flavor was butter, heavy cream and glorious, glorious lobster.

A note on the booths: No one can see you but the waiters, and they won’t tell if you lick the bowl clean.

The real challenge at Opus Prime is choosing an entree. The bone-in 18 oz. steak ($39.99) was beautifully seared and cooked to a perfect medium rare. The seasoning was minimal, as it should be, because a prime cut like this has flavor to spare. It’ll never be as tender as a fillet, but for a big, beefy punch, there’s nothing like it.

For those who are hesitant to order duck, come here and let me slap you. One more time. OK. Duck is delicious. And when it’s in the hands of executive chef Will Nichols, it’s a damned delight. The duck breast ($26.99) was tender and extraordinary. I could eat one of these every day (along with a crab cake) until the fowl and crustacean populations were utterly destroyed, and I would only feel marginally bad about it.

On the side, the macaroni and cheese ($7.99) features seven kinds of cheese and an equal number of goofy smiles on the faces of customers. The Opus frites ($7.99) are a fancy hybrid of a waffle fry and a potato chip and are served with spicy ketchup and mayonnaise.

A note on overeating: You will probably do that at Opus Prime.

Because then there’s dessert. And while the caramel apple pie with vanilla ice cream ($9) was a down-home treat, it was the crème brûlée ($10) with a kaleidoscope of flavors painted on the plate that stole my heart. A perfect burnt sugar crust and a rich vanilla bean custard underneath — woo. Woo, lawd. Woo.

Other prime steakhouses might have more flash or better name recognition, but Opus Prime has the food, the service and the wine worthy of your next stop for a special occasion or just a well-deserved treat.

 
  • Currently 3.5/5 Stars.
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