My empathy levels for pasta goes off the charts.
Almost as much as bread, pasta has taken a real beating in the public consciousness over the past few years. People talk about cutting out pasta from diets like its a middleman or distant cousin in a will.
Its not worth it, they say. If I eat pasta, Ill never lose that last 5 pounds.
Its true. If you want to lose your last 5 pounds of happiness and get one of those lean, muscled, miserable bodies, you definitely should get rid of pasta. Feel free to get rid of it in my direction, while youre at it, because theres no way Im quitting it, especially after visiting Patrono Italian Restaurant, 305 N. Walker Ave.
A gorgeous little bistro in the Arts District located across the way from Oklahoma City Museum of Art, Patrono has slowly built a reputation since opening last year as the metros go-to spot for real, delicious Italian fare.
Well, not with everybody, as my friend illustrated when he asked, Are we going to get some frozen margaritas or what? Apparently, Patronos name (which means patron saint in Italian) is just close enough to the name of a well-loved brand of tequila to confuse people a little. Allow me to clarify.
Patronos menu is inspired by owner and executive chef Robert DeCoste and his wifes travels through Italy. Its not American Italian; its Italian Italian.
The first dish to arrive at our table was beef carpaccio ($9), and it was a struggle to share this appetizer with anyone. Its made with thinly sliced raw beef, lightly sauced and seasoned with fresh black pepper. Cut against the grain, the beef is ready to dissolve in your mouth with barely a chew. The color is bright red and the flavor vital and rich. I wish roast beef was prepared this way, because I could easily eat an entire sandwich filled with this.
I had high hopes for the orecchiette calabrese ($17), but perhaps I expected too much. The ear-shaped pasta was cooked right, and the sauce of garlic, white wine and spicy pepper provided a nice balance. The chicken thighs were a little chewier than I usually prefer and lacked flavor.
This is one of those cases where Im not sure if it was an off night or the dish merely suffered from its comparison to the others on the table. Your mileage might vary, though, as Ive seen countless others praise the dish up and down.
For me, the dish of the night (and any other night I dine at Patrono) was the pork porterhouse over polenta and haricots verts ($22).
I am a sucker for a nicely cooked piece of swine. The pork was fatty without being chewy, retaining the delicate flavor of the meat in each juicy bite. The porks richness was set off against creamy fontina polenta and big chunks of decadent pancetta. The tender-crisp green beans gave each bite added texture, and a savory mushroom ragù tied it all together.
Fact: Spaghetti and meatballs make a dynamite combination, and anyone who tells you different is lying to you to get their hands on your pasta. Patronos spaghetti polpettine ($17) is a deceptively simple dish, pairing al dente noodles with miniature meatballs in a spicy sauce of basil, tomato and garlic. But the treat is on top: a giant scoop of whole milk ricotta diners stir into the dish, adding a creamy richness to every bite.
The meatballs were quite tender, and the sauce had a kick of spice that balanced perfectly against the ricotta.
Finally, I ended the meal with tiramisu ($8). Much like the orecchiette, I think the tiramisus biggest problem was that it didnt live up to the other dishes of the night. The cream was fresh and not overly sweet, but the ladyfingers seemed too wet and lacked the espresso flavor I hoped for. Next time, Ill try the lemon cake ($7).
And there will absolutely be a next time. With the friendly service, simple and elegant dining room and overall wonderful food, it was a joy to dine there. When you go, I think youll agree.
Print headline: Expect-o greatness, In the heart of the Arts District, Patrono is OKCs patron saint of great Italian cuisine.