Take away the mustard and the mayo and the lettuce and the onion and tomato. Forget the cheese. At the most basic, a hamburger is a patty of cooked ground beef on a bun.
That is not the way I prefer to eat a burger, generally, yet I did. Twice. Side-by-side. To bring you this bit of non-revelation: The No Name Ranch Burger at Irmas Burger Shack is far superior to the regular Irma Burger.
Shocking, right? I mean, who could have predicted (everybody can raise your hands now) that the $7.50 No Name burger made with grass-fed, organic, locally raised beef would somehow be superior to the $4.95 Irma Burger? Oh, I see you all have your hands raised. Very well.
The funny thing to me, anyway is that the folks at Irmas will plainly tell you this. [Because they want you to have a better burger and a $2.50 up-charge.] Youll notice that the No Name meat can hold that medium (or medium-rare, yum!) color and flavor better. The meat is not spongy. It just tastes right.
Now, you can cover it in sauces or cheeses or put bacon on top of it if you want. I might be a plain burger convert. It really is that much better.
Is the Irma Burger bad? No. Its fine. If you didnt taste them together, you probably wouldnt know. But I did. I cant unknow it. And now that you just read it, you probably cant unknow it, either.
But maybe you dont like burgers.
Maybe youre from another planet, one where they havent discovered flavors or happiness. If so, Irmas Burger Shack probably isnt the place for you. If you just dont dig on red meat, however, Id go for the Which Came First ($6.50).
Which Came First is a mess of a thing. Its a blackened chicken breast, juicy and flavorful, covered in green chiles and pepper jack cheese. Oh, and theres a fried egg on top. Its one of the few chicken sandwiches I actually enjoy.
Some
foods are just a dare made manifest, and the What U Lookin @ ($15.95)
is a prime example. Its a sandwich made out of sandwiches. The buns
on this burger are grilled ham and cheese sandwiches. And stacked in the
middle of those two sandwiches are fried eggs, bacon, hot links and 12
ounces of No Name beef.
The
White Trash Nachos ($8.95) are, as owner Linda Lee told me, driven by
need. What if you desperately want Mexican food, but youre in a burger
joint? You make do.
Which is how a pile of fresh-cut french fries were bathed in a shower of
pepper jack and cheddar, beans, chicken, onions, sour cream, jalapeños
and salsa.
Huh? Youre still here? I figured youd probably gone to Irmas already.
OK.
Well, theres also a pretty darn good chicken-fried steak ($9.95)
covered in homemade pepper gravy. Want to know how you can tell its
homemade? When youre done with the steak, youll be looking for
anything else you can find to sop it up.
And
Id be remiss if I didnt mention the chocolate sheet cake ($3), which
reminds me of the sheet cake my dad used to take to the office. Its
flat and chocolatey. Get some. Yes, you.
Irmas,
as Lee said, did not invent the burger. But it does a pretty damn good
job making burgers I want to eat. Which is why itll probably be seeing
too much of me for a long while.
Oklahoma
Gazettes restaurant review policy is to highlight the positive
aspects, and include constructive criticism regarding food, ambience or
service when appropriate.