Take a Cab 

Alex Kroblin, co-owner of Thirst Wine Merchants, which represents Lewis Cellars, recently poured Mason’s at The Metro, 6418 N. Western. It will be featured on owner LaVeryl Lower’s by-the-glass list.

“This is only the third vintage of this wine, and it’s the first time we’ve had it in the state,” Kroblin said.

The previous vintages were 2003 and 2006, so Oklahoma has access to a hard-to-find wine at a good price. The Lewis Mason’s Cabernet is big with black fruit, currant, spice and earth. It’s also available at Edmond Wine Shop, 1520 S. Boulevard.

Oscar Renteria came from a family of vineyard managers, not winemakers. His father once warranted a four-page spread in Wine Spectator. Renteria now manages more acres in Napa than any other vineyard manager. And he makes wine — good wine.

The Renteria Napa Cabernet is new in Oklahoma and available at Boulevard Steakhouse, 505 S. Boulevard, and Stella, 1201 N. Walker. It has eye-opening acidity, silky tannins, black and blue fruit and a solid finish. You’ll also find it at a solid price compared to other Napa Cabernets on metro wine lists.

The 2009 Fisticuffs is here! Yes, you should be excited. Its package has been completely redone, but the wine remains spectacular, and the price is unbelievable.

A cooperative effort between Rob Lawson (Ghost Block, Johndrow, Pavi) and Robert Foley (Hourglass, Robert Foley Vineyards), the wine has dense blue and black fruit, but the soft tannins and smooth finish prevent it from being overwhelming. It’s available by the glass at Stella for a rare treat, and by the bottle at Spirit Shop in Norman, 1117 Garver.

The Table has been here for a year or two, but I just discovered Larry Stone’s involvement in the project, and a new vintage justifies a mention. The wine is a Napa Cabernet blend created by Top Chef’s Tom Colicchio, with the help of Stone of Evening Land.

Stone is a master sommelier and former general manager of Rubicon Estate; he’s also one of the most frenetically genius wine nerds in the world. That he is involved in the project guarantees its quality. That it’s priced under $20 makes it unbelievable. It’s widely available in town, and not to be missed.

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Greg Horton

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